Simon’s Pick, 2/08: 2001 Rioja Reserva, Vina Saturnia, Ramon de Ayala Lete e Hijos

You’re used to the drill by now, but for anybody new to domaine547, every month we get a tip on a terrific wine from Simon, the wine buyer at Larchmont Wine, Spirits and Cheese in Los Angeles.

Simon tends to have old world taste (though last month he surprised us with an Aussie Shiraz) but he has a remarkable palate, and must sample a minimum of about 25 wines for every one he brings into the store. Which is to say, the wine of the month has to be really, truly special to qualify for that title.

For February, Simon brings us back to the old world, this time to Spain, with the 2001 Rioja Reserva, Vina Saturnia, Ramon de Ayala Lete e Hijos. It’s offered at Larchmont Wine in LA for $16.99 a bottle. Call (323) 856-8699 to order, or stop on by and pick up a bottle.

Simon says:

We return swiftly to Spain for this month’s selection. This gorgeous Rioja is evidently in shortish supply and we didn’t want you to miss out because of undue procrastination.

Our ongoing quest for balanced, food-friendly wines brought us to this juicy and approachable red that just begs for a hunk of bread, some olives and some slices of Serrano.

The grapes (90% Tempranillo, 5% Mazuelo and 5% Graciano) come from the Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa in north central Spain and are sourced from old, sparsely planted vines. Water supply to the soil is limited in this area, somewhat stressing the vines, which leads to lower yields and more complexity.

This Reserva is fermented in stainless steel, aged in used American oak for 12 months, then another 24 months in the bottle. The result is a wine of generous fruit character, but it’s not heavy or ponderous. The tannins are supple, and the bright cherry and raspberry fruit are really to the fore on the palate. This is a good example of a wine that displays intensity, but doesn’t overwhelm.

As stated above, bring out the fatty meats, traditional paella, a hearty stew or some pungent cheeses to pair with this, or take it to your next tapas-based affair. –SC

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