No, I am not a natural wine merchant.

And no, I am also not not a natural wine merchant.

So what exactly is my store, Domaine LA? This is a tricky question that I try to answer here.
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A couple of months back, I participated in the first annual Los Angeles Natural Wine Week, spearheaded by Lou Amdur of Lou Wine Bar. At that time, I took some heat from a few folks around the Internet who felt I might have been merely capitalizing on a trend and didn’t see me as a true natural wine merchant.

The thing is, I’ve never claimed to be a natural wine merchant. When I started my business online a few years ago, I stated plainly that I wanted to sell wines I loved. I was an enthusiast with a fairly receptive, wide-ranging palate, and I considered learning about wine a journey I would be going on alongside my customers. While I’ve since expanded my business to include a brick and mortar space, my self-conception and mission statement haven’t really changed. But my palate has.

To be absolutely blunt about it, I used to love wines that I simply can’t stomach anymore. There are blog posts archived on my website that in retrospect make me cringe, paragraphs singing the praises of some of the most blatantly manipulated wines in the world. I once criticized a wine bar for not having any Southern Hemisphere selections; it’s now my favorite spot in Los Angeles. And today I carry barely a dozen Southern Hemisphere SKUs myself.

By and large, my palate-shift is reflected in what I bring into the store. Chris Ringland and Mollydooker have been replaced by Eric Texier and Thierry Puzelat; the California fruit- and alcohol-bombs, for the most part, have given way to wines from La Clarine Farm, Donkey and Goat and LIOCO.

As a result of my largely obscure inventory, almost every day I’m faced with customers asking for items that I don’t stock. On a regular basis, I hear:

“Do you have Rombauer Chardonnay?”

No, I answer.

“Do you have Caymus?”

Afraid not, I reply.

“What about Blackstone Merlot?”

So sorry, but no.

“Where’s the Veuve Clicquot? This is a gift. I need the recipient to know it’s nice!”

Sigh.

Saying no to people sets up a potentially risky relationship that may start and end with that one exchange—many customers want what they want and aren’t open to alternative suggestions. In other cases, however, that simple “no” can be the beginning of something beautiful, a dialogue that winds up with a customer who came in looking for the Prisoner instead going home with something like Morgan Twain-Peterson’s Bedrock Heirloom Red, a wine which, while perhaps not 100% natural, is a more honest “made in the vineyard” (yes, I know this is also a cliché) version of what the Prisoner purports to be.

Of course, sometimes that customer really just wants the Prisoner. Which leads me to my major confession here: despite more than a bit of ambivalence, I continue to sell the Prisoner, along with other wines that are by no means natural, wines that are quite frankly manufactured. The Prisoner sits on the shelf right next to the Bedrock Heirloom Red, and for the time being, it will stay there. At least twice a week people come in asking specifically for this wine, and, for several reasons, it’s a request I’m not—yet—willing to deny.

Even though I no longer drink the Prisoner, there was a time–not too long ago–when I did so happily. When I first started getting interested in wine, it was a bottle that captured my imagination and helped launch me on the journey I remain committed to today. So maybe I keep the Prisoner around out of a sense of nostalgia. Or maybe I keep it around to remind me how far I’ve come. Maybe I keep it around hoping that for those who ask for it, it will simply be their starting place just as it was mine.

Or, more cynically, maybe I keep it around because people buy it. Maybe it’s a crutch to lean on when I’m too tired to hand-sell the less familiar items on my shelves. Seeing something recognizable is comforting to consumers, and that comfort somehow lends me credibility; credibility is a precedent to trust. Trust is what enables me to recommend something different to a customer who normally drinks the Prisoner.

In this sense, the Prisoner is of great value to me, not just as an easy sell, but even more so as a gateway to all the other wines I have available. I don’t know that I’d be able to move as much of the Bedrock, an unknown wine with a tiny case production, without the Prisoner right next to it.
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Saying no is extremely hard. Right now, I’m willing to do so 90% of the time, maybe even 95%. Call me a coward or a fake if you want. But I know where I started out, and it’s been a logical evolution. And while I’m headed in a particular direction, guided by my palate, it’s safe to assume I won’t ever be a 100% “natural wine merchant.”

I like to think there’s room for somebody like me—somebody with confidence in her tastes, who also takes into account modes of production in buying decisions; someone who has a particular point of view, yet retains an inclusive attitude. I am strong in my opinions, and enthusiastic in my passions. I never judge my customers, and hope that they’ll be as open-minded and respectful of my offerings as I am of their preferences.

So far, it seems to be working out. In recent months, I’ve brought in only one case of the Prisoner (less than a thousandth of a percent of its total production) for every three cases of the Bedrock (1.3% of its total production).

So, what am I?

I’m not a natural wine merchant. And I’m not not a natural wine merchant.

I’m a work in progress. And I’m okay with that.

Lou Amdur, of LOU on Vine, has been hard at work putting together Los Angeles’s first Natural Wine Week. I’m remiss in announcing this, since it’s barely 7 days away. Go on over to the website Lou has set up to learn more about the variety of events around town exploring this controversial, fascinating, and never boring category of wines.

I’m actually hosting a pretty nifty event, in which Lou will be catering with local cheeses and meats, and five wineries will be sampling their wares. On May 15th, from 6PM to 8PM, swing on by Heath Ceramics to meet Abe Schoener (Scholium Project), Hank Beckmeyer (La Clarine Farm), Don Heistuman (Ah! Wine/Edmunds St. John), Jared Brandt (Donkey & Goat) and Kevin O’Connor (LIOCO), who will each be sharing an array of their super-small production, California wines.

Each of these producers makes wine that I believe truly showcases California terroir. For the most part, they all shun commercial yeasts, farm organically or with minimal use of chemicals, avoid overuse of new oak, and focus on single vineyard bottlings. And while some may fall more squarely in the “natural wine” category than others, they are all working without compromise to be true shepherds, rather than manufacturers, of the grape.

As I indicated, Heath Ceramics will be hosting the tasting and it’s a great match for the California subject matter, as Heath has always emphasized the concept of “local,” long before it became fashionable. They’re just a hop, skip and a jump away from dLA, at 7525 Beverly Boulevard.

Tickets (a reasonable $25) are available for pre-purchase online by clicking here, or in person at Domaine LA at 6801 Melrose Avenue. If you prefer to be more spontaneous, tickets can be purchased at the event itself for $30.

Hope to see many of you there!

Meet Amy Atwood. She’s swell.

But first, maybe I should introduce myself. I’m Whitney and the new kid on the domaineLA block. I’ll be posting here on the blog from time to time and with this post I debut a little ongoing series we like to call Meet the Reps. So- let’s get to it!

Amy is the proprietor of Amy Atwood Selections and one of our favorite people to taste with. She has a stellar portfolio of almost entirely “natural” wines. As Amy says herself, “Most of the wines I sell are made with organic grapes, natural yeasts, no added acids or sugar and minimal added sulfites.” She distributes quite a bit of wine from the Savio Soares book, some Austrian and Spanish selections as well as a few small California producers. She started this venture last Fall after a year of careful selecting and scouting.

Today, Amy brought us five wines to taste; two Savio Soares imports and three California wines from the extremely small production of La Clarine Farm.

While the Trocken was indeed rockin’, and the Languedoc Merlot a true bargain, I want to focus on the La Clarine Farm wines we tried since they highlight Amy’s focus perfectly. Hank Beckmeyer is the winemaker producing truly vin naturel wines in the Sierra Foothills. He applies a hands-off approach to both the farming of the vineyards (Fukuoka Natural Farming) and to the winemaking itself. Words and phrases like “whole cluster, foot-trodden fermentation,” “biodynamic,” “no sulfur at harvest” and “no new oak!” define his practices and method. Read more…

I’ve been having a little fun featuring a “Customer of the Day” on our facebook page, and was asked by one customer who is not a facebook member if I might post them on the blog. So here’s the first batch!

Created with Admarket’s flickrSLiDR.

You can always join our facebook fan page to see this updated more regularly, though I’ll try to post slide shows here every now and then. I’ll also try to come up with a way to feature some of the online shoppers. And maybe I can come up with a prize! Right now, the prize is the fleeting fame associated with the couple hundred views one’s photo might get on the blog…

Photo courtesy of djjewelz

I’m tardy in posting this, and what I’m posting this morning is actually only about 1/2 complete…so expect a few modifications and additions as the next few days progress. In the meantime, a small bit of background:

As some of you may know, I helped design the wine list for LudoBites 3.0 at Royal/T in Culver City this past December. Despite a new location for 4.0 that is BYO-only, Gram & Papa’s in Downtown Los Angeles, Ludo and Krissy Lefebvre have been generous and creative as always, and we’ve collaborated to come up with a way to keep me involved with LudoBites.

So, what you’ll find here — at the domaineLA (aka domaine547) e-commerce site — is a Virtual Wine List: a wine list designed for a restaurant without wine sales on location, designed as a resource for restaurant-goers to draw on as they choose wines to bring from home appropriate to the cuisine Ludo is serving.

While I’ll share some sample items with you in this blog post, you can go to the domaineLA e-commerce site for the complete list of wines with descriptions and suggested food pairings (all available for purchase). And of course you can always come to the shop at 6801 Melrose to find these bottles and more. Or, feel free to call me at (323) 932-0280. We offer delivery services too!

After the jump, more info on the wines and pairings from the FoodDigger event last night…

Read more…